By Cliff Lewis
It might be easy to miss. Just along the initial drag of N Prince St, right across from the Clipper Stadium—there it is on your left: Phở Thanh Thúy, Downtown Lancaster’s one and only Vietnamese noodle house. On the outside, there are few visual hints—no cultural images of rice paddies or sprawling rivers or water buffalo. There is simply a plain white sign reading: “PHO THANH THUY / VIETNAMESE NOODLE HOUSE.”
Inside, the atmosphere is casual and family-like. The walls are lightly decorated, here and there, with objects and pictures representing a Vietnamese heritage. But decor is not the reason to visit Phở Thanh Thúy. What makes this restaurant unique and well worthwhile is, far and away, the cuisine.
Vietnamese food is considerably different from Chinese, despite the close proximity of their lands of origin. The culinary palate of Vietnam is characteristically fresh, making ample use of raw herbs like lemongrass, mint, basil, and cilantro. This is evident at Phở Thanh Thúy from early on, when the server sets each table with a complimentary plate of fresh bean sprouts, bordered by the long leaves of various zesty herbs.
Gỏi Cuốn is a good way to get started. These egg-roll-like appetizers are tightly packed in an un-friend, translucent rice wrapper and filled with lettuce, rice vermicelli, bean sprouts, pork, and shrimp. And, for an entree that can satisfy the most Western of appetites, try the Cơm Tấm Đặc Biệt. This dish features a lively spread of rice, two kinds of grilled pork, and a slice of Vietnamese omelet. The meal is accompanied by a small bowl of fish sauce, an orange, lightly sweet mixture that carries a subtle depth of flavor.
And we would be remiss to ignore the rice noodle soup. The wide, steaming bowls of Phở Chín Nạm hold a rich beef broth with slices of beef brisket and flank, a dense tangle of light rice noodles, and strong presence of fresh cilantro.
Phở Thanh Thúy can take an American palate for quite a trip, while keep the experience pleasant and satisfying. And, considering it’s rather prominent location, it may well be one of the Clipper Stadium’s best kept secrets.
Phở Thanh Thúy is located at 603 N Prince St.
