By Cliff Lewis

For most Americans, the category of “Mexican food” is occupied by a short list of ingredients—tortilla, cheese, salsa, maybe some beef or chicken. We tend to imagine something heavy, salty, and vaguely spicy; but “fresh” would rarely come mind as an apt description. Cocina Mexicana, however, offers Mexican food with a decidedly fresh and vivid appeal. The establishment defines its cuisine as “authentic Mexican food,” and for good reason.

Cocina Mexicana sits at the central location of 47 North Prince St., on the same block as the Prince Street Café, Carman and David’s Creamery, the Fulton Theater, and the PA Academy of Music. However, many passersby might miss this quaint little restaurant while averting their eyes from “the Den” next door. But those curious enough to stop by are welcomed with a friendly atmosphere, bathed in warm, earthy tones of yellow and orange. The service is both prompt and easy-going.

The menu at Cocina Mexicana has a way of subtly defying expectations. Their banana milkshake is light and mild, probably a simple blend of bananas and milk. And their hot sauces have a way of majoring in the bright zest of fresh peppers while minoring in the usual burn.

The taco selection is diverse and delicious, ranging from Al Pastor (with savory grilled pork and pineapple) to El Mexicano (with fried strips of potato, a slice of avocado and cactus, and a choice of meat). All are served on two warm pads of soft, flour tortilla. The “Combo Enchiladas” platter—with one chicken, one cheese, and one shrimp enchilada—showcases a variety of lively flavors, accompanied by a generous serving of rice and refried beans which is prepared with as much creativity and care as the main course itself.

Cocina Mexicana also offers a selection of soups, salads, burritos, and tortas (“authentic Mexican sandwiches made with mayonnaise, beans, lettuce, tomato, avocado, jalapeno pepper and your choice of filling”). And, perhaps best of all, the menu offers a number of budget items: With most of their tacos ringing in at under $2.50, Cocina Mexicana is perhaps the best place in Lancaster to go for a $5 meal.

Cocina Mexicana is located at 47 North Prince Street, and is open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Friday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; and Saturday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.

By Cliff Lewis

At 47 North Queen, the Super Bread Colombian Bakery sits right under the nose of Penn Square, but nevertheless, many art-walking, market-going, city-loving folks may never have realized that it’s there. This shop might fall out of notice for its marginal position, located on the eastern side of this first block of N Queen—the side that dimly boasts a Rite Aid and Rent-a-Center against the coffee shops and niche boutiques of its western counterpart. But Super Bread chalks one up for the east, providing fresh, unique baked items and representing Lancaster’s vital Latino/Hispanic culture on the Downtown scene.

During morning hours, the shop is warm with the aroma of baking breads. Along the wall are dozens of clear boxes, showcasing the creations of the day. There is a certain heartiness that distinguishes many of these Colombian-style baked goods. Items like the Almojabana (baked cheese ball) and the Pandebono (cheese and egg bread) have a floury crunch on the outer crust and a savory breading within. The robust Pan de Queso (cheese bread) holds a glossy, chewy crust and a baked sprinkling of cheese.

Sweeter items at Super Bread are light and subtle. The Sweet Whole Wheat Bread comes in dark, round rolls, and is lightly sweetened with a mild, licorice-like hint. The donut-shaped rings of Guava Bread are, again, mildly sugared and filled with a guava jam.

The service is fast, friendly, and marked by a family-owned spirit of hospitality. And the space is surprising open, despite what, from the outside, appears to be a rather small storefront shop. Along one wall there stretches a long table with bar stools for patrons to sit and enjoy their breads, empanadas, drinks, and lunch items.

All things considered, Super Bread Colombian Bakery on North Queen Street is just another great reason to take a closer look at Downtown Lancaster’s many unassuming little shops.

By Cliff Lewis

It’s an endangered species to be sure: The quaint little shop, nestled in a friendly neighborhood, just a stroll away from so many porches, yards, and front doors. These days, one must travel by car to access most popular cafés, the majority of which are bounded by broad deserts of asphalt. At best, one might venture to the Prince Street Café or Square One Coffee—excellent shops, but not without the frenzied buzz that accompanies any spot within the Central Business District. But a simple, quiet, neighborhood café is hard to find. That is, unless you’re anywhere near Pickles Café at 323 W. Lemon Street.

At the northeast corner of Lemon and Concord, Pickles Café sits in a generally quiet slice of town, just far enough from the bustle of Prince and Queen. The indoor seating area, although rather narrow, feels more cozy than cramped, with a row of several square tables and seating for two beside the Lemon St. window. In addition to the inviting atmosphere, the majority of visitors seem to be residents of the surrounding community; one can sense this from the sound of neighborly banter, and the morning pack of dressed-down newspaper-readers.

The menu offers mostly standard café fare, with coffee, bagels, pastries, omelets, and breakfast burritos for the morning; and sandwiches, wraps, and salads for lunch. But the quality and care put into each of these menu items is well beyond “standard.” A great lunch starter is the fresh vegetables with hummus; the portions are generous and the hummus is bold and rich. The sandwiches all carry a creative, vibrant flare, whether one is enjoying a basic BLT or an eclectic Roasted Portobello and Brie with Pesto Mayo.

Owner Rob Washick explained that the selection has remained similar to what was offered when the shop was known as “Dosie Dough.” In addition to providing a variety of Vegan options, Pickles Café seeks to use fresh, local ingredients as often as possible.

Pickles Café is an ideal spot to enjoy a calm breakfast or lunch in a friendly Lancaster City neighborhood. The shop is worth a visit—if for no other reason than to catch a glimpse of this rare and valuable breed of Café.

By Cliff Lewis

It might be easy to miss. Just along the initial drag of N Prince St, right across from the Clipper Stadium—there it is on your left: Phở Thanh Thúy, Downtown Lancaster’s one and only Vietnamese noodle house. On the outside, there are few visual hints—no cultural images of rice paddies or sprawling rivers or water buffalo. There is simply a plain white sign reading: “PHO THANH THUY / VIETNAMESE NOODLE HOUSE.”

Inside, the atmosphere is casual and family-like. The walls are lightly decorated, here and there, with objects and pictures representing a Vietnamese heritage. But decor is not the reason to visit Phở Thanh Thúy. What makes this restaurant unique and well worthwhile is, far and away, the cuisine.

Vietnamese food is considerably different from Chinese, despite the close proximity of their lands of origin. The culinary palate of Vietnam is characteristically fresh, making ample use of raw herbs like lemongrass, mint, basil, and cilantro. This is evident at Phở Thanh Thúy from early on, when the server sets each table with a complimentary plate of fresh bean sprouts, bordered by the long leaves of various zesty herbs.

Gỏi Cuốn is a good way to get started. These egg-roll-like appetizers are tightly packed in an un-friend, translucent rice wrapper and filled with lettuce, rice vermicelli, bean sprouts, pork, and shrimp. And, for an entree that can satisfy the most Western of appetites, try the Cơm Tấm Đặc Biệt. This dish features a lively spread of rice, two kinds of grilled pork, and a slice of Vietnamese omelet. The meal is accompanied by a small bowl of fish sauce, an orange, lightly sweet mixture that carries a subtle depth of flavor.

And we would be remiss to ignore the rice noodle soup. The wide, steaming bowls of Phở Chín Nạm hold a rich beef broth with slices of beef brisket and flank, a dense tangle of light rice noodles, and strong presence of fresh cilantro.

Phở Thanh Thúy can take an American palate for quite a trip, while keep the experience pleasant and satisfying. And, considering it’s rather prominent location, it may well be one of the Clipper Stadium’s best kept secrets.

Phở Thanh Thúy is located at 603 N Prince St.

By Cliff Lewis

Some might assume that all of the cultural hot spots of Downtown Lancaster exist within a few blocks of Penn Square—surely the culture ends by the time you hit Mulberry St, right? Wrong. Cozily tucked into an historic, 315 W King St, stone row home, La Costeña Restaurant prepares some of the most diverse and palate-expanding dishes that the city has to offer.

Before visitors place their order, the table is fixed with little bowls of canchita, salted puffs of corn that can best be described as “inverted popcorn.” (You won’t understand until you try it.) This free appetizer provides a good preface for the quality of La Costeña’s menu: It touches on American culinary expectations, but always pushes flavors into delightfully uncharted territory.

The selection of entrées deals significantly with seafood, or “mariscos.” One of these dishes is “Parihuela,” a wide bowl of talapia, scallops, shrimp, mussels, and lobster claws in a spicy broth of onions and Peruvian seasonings. The menu also provides a strong selection of chicken and steak items, most notable for the heavy and freshly spiced sauces used in their preparation.

What La Costeña offers is a rich and affectionately crafted cultural experience. One cannot enter this establishment without gathering the sense that a very unique heritage is being guarded behind these stony Lancaster walls. The Peruvian experience is well worth walking the extra blocks—and it sure beats buying a plane ticket.

By Cliff Lewis

The empty storefront at the southwest corner of Prince and W Orange Streets will soon become home to the “Green Man Café”, which, as owner Richard Mellinger described it, will be an eco-friendly and organic shop with a “European flavor.” Mellinger sat at an old table from the “Starving Artist Café”—which shut down several months ago after a brief run at this 106 W Orange address. The tables and chairs will be replaced, explained Mellinger, who is currently working to replace the existing purple décor with earthier, more natural tones.

This will be the first restaurant in Downtown Lancaster to deliberately market itself as “green.”

The goal of the café is to be “ecologically sound and organically oriented.” To this end, “Green Man” will work with reusable dishes and cups to reduce waste; and for take-out packaging, they are contracting with an eco-friendly supplier for biodegradable materials (“no Styrofoam or plastics”). Both the organic and green priorities will also be served by using local food products: “We will be over at Central Market, looking for items over there rather than buying through a wholesaler-where it could come from California and you don’t know where it’s been.”

“Green Man Café” will serve breakfast and lunch. For breakfast there will be made-to-order omelets, baked oatmeal, porridge, and fresh baked croissants; for lunch there will be soups, salads, sandwiches, paninis, and smoothies. And, throughout the day, the café will serve coffee, cappuccinos, lattes, etc. Mellinger noted that the café will always offer a good selection of vegetarian options.

For students of the Pennsylvania College of Art and Design, there will be a permanent 10% discount: “A lot of them live down at Stevens house, and they travel past here twice a day, going to school.”

Mellinger expects that the “Green Man Café” will open sometime around July 1. Once up and running, the café will keep hours from 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. to serve the breakfast and lunch crowds. On First and Third Fridays, “Green Man Café” will stay open into the evening.

By Cliff Lewis

In Lancaster City, you don’t need to break the bank to enjoy a meal of fresh and exotic flavors. Just east of the corner of King and Duke, La Cocina sits in a quaint storefront on 111 E King St, just across from Demuth’s Tobacco Shop. The restaurant serves an extensive and inexpensive array of Dominican foods in a colorful and classy setting.

On a busy weekday lunch hour, the café is a relaxed escape from the loud bustle of Downtown. Even with music playing, the place seems quiet. All at once, the restaurant is warm, relaxed, clean, and organized. It works for a business meeting or a bite on the run.

At the front counter, patrons select from a lively spread of dishes, including empanadas, plantains, stewed pork, fried fish, stewed goat, and more. These items are not only diverse, but they are also deliciously well-prepared. For instance, the empanadas-fried pastries filled with cheese and meat-were stuffed with a savory shredded steak instead of the usual ground beef. A plate of food is generously piled with a thick stew of rice and beans along with any other chosen items.

And the price is certainly right. A heaping plate of rice and beans with plantains and meat costs around $6. Empanadas run for a dollar each. With food like this at such a lean price, what’s the point of fast food?

By Cliff Lewis

If you love Lancaster City life, visit every shop on the Downtown strip, and faithfully art-walk every First Friday, odds are you still haven’t been to this place. The Brothers and Sisters Café quaintly sits on a far Southeastern edge of Lancaster City, where the lines begin to blur between the city and the County Central Park. It’s a friendly place to find top-notch Southern-style soul food at a reasonable price. To say that it gives KFC a run for its money would be a serious understatement.

The restaurant is owned and operated by Willie and Frances Morant, both natives of South Carolina. In 1998, the couple opened up shop, calling their new restaurant the “Brothers and Sisters Café” to set the tone of “unity among family, friends and loved ones—a feeling Brothers and Sisters desires to offer its customers each time they walk through the door.”

The name is fitting. Just upon walking through the doors, one can recognize the casual and family-like atmosphere. It’s like swinging by an aunt and uncle’s place for Sunday dinner. Frances ran the front counter, and Willie worked back in the kitchen—but he made sure to stroll over to chat with the visiting patrons.

The home-cooked food is generous and authentic: perfect fried chicken, sweet and buttery yams, loaded collared greens, fried rice, black-eyed peas, and a whole lot more. All of this food is available a la carte or at the café’s all-you-can-eat lunch buffet (which rings in at a thrifty $7). Brothers and Sisters also caters all sorts of special events; and right now, Morant says, they’re booked solid.

The Brothers and Sister’s Café is located at 601 S Marshall St, and is open Thursday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.

By Cliff Lewis

In late 2005, Keith and Crystal Weaver; Dave and Carol Witmer; Kevin and Valentina Weaver; and Ed and Joan McManness all put their heads together: “We all had a very common vision,” Crystal Weaver explains, “and that was to provide a place where people could come hang out and not feel like they just needed to move along…. We wanted a place that was well-done, that felt like someone had put some time, energy, and quality into it.”

Ever since the Prince Street Café’s opening in August of 2006, this vision has been tremendously successful. People often ask Weaver if business has dropped in the current recession, but the fact is the Café just experienced its busiest winter yet: “It’s been on the incline ever since we moved in. I don’t think we’ve leveled off. I keep thinking, ‘By now the hype should be over and it should level off…’ But things haven’t slowed down yet.”

Another early purpose for the Café was to bring more people Downtown, “for people outside the city to come in and start to feel comfortable in the city and feel safe in it.” Weaver, who was raised on a farm in Centerville, said that most of the people she grew up with were afraid to come Downtown. Today, Weaver estimates that her Lancaster City business receives more than half of its traffic from people outside city limits.

According to Marshall Snively, Deputy Director of the James Street Improvement District (which includes the Downtown Investment District), the city has collected a younger, more “hip” crowd in recent years. The pattern cannot be directly traced to the arrival of the Prince Street Café, but the Café’s success is certainly emblematic of the trend.

For Lancaster’s city-goers and city-dwellers, the Prince Street Café provides a winning combination of quality and affordability. It isn’t the quintessential “Ritz,” but it isn’t a hole-in-the-wall, either. Although the concept of affordable quality appears obvious enough, Weaver believes this is something that the city could use more of: “I think there’s a need for a place that is mid-range—nice, but not really expensive.”

It took eight owners and a great idea to start up Lancaster City’s Prince Street Café—a business that now stands as a parable to how a strong vision can go a long way when enough people put their heads and wallets together. And, after all, isn’t that what cities are all about?

The Café is located at 15 N. Prince St and is open from 6:30am to 11pm on Monday through Thursday, and perpetually from 6:30am Friday to 3:30pm Sunday.