By Robert Field

I had an evening alone in Manhattan and a craving for a good, old fashioned Jewish delicatessen.

For half a century I would have headed for the Stage Deli around 54^th and Seventh Avenue, but by the last visit their customers were ordering corn beef on white bread and tuna fish salads and the servers all spoke Spanish.  It just wasn’t the same.

A block to the north is the Carnegie…not the concert hall, but the Deli!   The food was supposedly as good as the Stage, some said better, but I found the atmosphere lacking.   Where the Stage was a show case, with lots of windows along the avenue so that one could watch the passer bys while they gawked at the customers to see if they could recognize a star actor or athlete.   One did not have to share a table and there was at least six inches of space to serve as a buffer zone from the often oversized customers.

Unlike the Stage, the Carnegie has limited Avenue frontage and long, narrow tables for eight people are lined perpendicular to the central aisle, so you were seated with the ‘hoi polloi.’    (Us common people.)

But once I glanced into the Carnegie and saw the servers lined up in their black pants, black vests and white shirts and the long counter filled with traditional deli delicacies, and the crowded restaurant, I knew I had to go in.

Now a sandwich at the Carnegie is filled literally with four inches of meat!  Many take half the sandwich with them for lunch the next day.

Here are some samples from the menu:

Blintzes:  CHEESE – STRAWBERRRY- BLUEBERRY –CHERRY WITH SOUR CREAM OR “BIG APPLE” SAUCE

PRIME BRISKET OF BEEF POT ROAST in rich brown gravy with potato pancake, and fresh vegetables

Milton’s boiled beef flanken in the pot with matzoh ball, noodles, consommé, fresh vegetables and cole slaw

“THE WOODY ALLEN” For the dedicated fresser only!  Lotsa Corned Beef plus lotsa Pastrami

Nova salmon, Sturgeon, Baked salmon, a cut from a large white fish… all served with cream cheese, lettuce, tomato, oniono, and a bagel on the side.

MILLIES STUFFED CABBAGE ROUMANIAN STYLE – In sweet and sour sauce, with boiled potato, fresh vegetables and cole slaw

And of course there is cheese cake as well as strudel to die for.  (And if you eat your entire entre’  plus the dessert, you likely will.)

My choice was “Harveys Midnight Special: All beef knockwurst with baked beans, and sauerkraut.” To which I added a side of rye bread and a side of cole slaw.    (Hang the extra cost!)   There were two giant knockwursts on a platter of baked beans.    (Instead of the traditional Dr Brown’s Cel–Ray Tonic, I cheated by ordering a Heineken.)  I applied the special mustard and dived in.  I ate and drank half of everything!

While growing up, every other Sunday when our housekeeper had her day off, we often swung by the deli row in North Philadelphia and picked up corned beef, pastrami, all beef hot dogs, sauerkraut, pickles (from a barrel), and Jewish rye and kaiser rolls to take home for a dinner spread.

So this evening I wasn’t just satisfying a craving.   As I sat at the end of a table of eight, I was revisiting the distant past.

Post Scrip:   A reader forwarded an article reporting  the closing of the Stage  Deli  last November.  Small wonder.

 Also, if you visit the Carnegie, bring cash.  They don’t accept credit cards.

Tucked along the green, pedestrian-friendly walks of Millersville University’s broad campus grounds, the George Street Café modestly churns out some of the finest café fare in Lancaster County. This 304 North George Street shop offers a cool, tasteful environment; a fresh, lively staff; and a refined-yet-affordable menu—well worth a short trip to this idyllic little college town.

Café food is always hit-or-miss. At its worst, you’ll often see a pre-packaged afterthought of a menu—really just an excuse to serve something other than coffee and tea. At its best, you’ll see a genuine effort to serve up colorful cuisine for a casual price—where the composition is simple, but the ingredients are far from run-of-the-mill. George Street is the living definition of that latter camp.

All of the shop’s specialty sandwiches are available on a wrap, ciabatta bread, or on their “bread of the day.” A wrap—whole wheat, spinach, or tomato—is highly recommended to showcase these sandwiches’ thoughtful flavor combinations.

The Turkey, Brie, and Cranberry wrap creates a profound blend, in which all of the namesake ingredients taste as though they had always been destined for one another. The turkey is moist and generously piled, joining with the brie in a deep base of flavor that is expanded by the high-hitting tang and sweetness of cranberry sauce. Lined with leaves of fresh baby spinach, the wrap offers a uniquely satisfying blend of both bright and savory tones.

A sandwich with chips and a pickle rings in at around $10 when you add a bowl of George Street’s soup of the day. The rich, warm spinach soup partnered well with the generally cold turkey wrap, and pushed the meal just past the finish line of this reporter’s appetite.

You never know what to expect from a coffee shop menu. This is dangerous territory, folks. But you can rest assured that George Street provides a delicious display of café food at its very finest, proving that thoughtful cuisine does not have to be expensive cuisine.

Bars. Their mention evokes a variety of images, from slick martini-sipping pads to rowdy game day congregations to tired old holes-in-the-wall. One word that rarely comes to mind is “neighborhood”—unless preceded by “shady.” But Jethro’s Restaurant and Bar, at the corner of First and Ruby streets, is a neighborhood bar in the very best sense of the phrase, exuding a friendly, home-like atmosphere and producing a menu of top-notch American cuisine.

The casual interior design takes on deep shades of brown and red, with lighting that is almost distractingly dim. But the overall effect is cozy and inviting. Fronted by a wall of comfortable booth seating, the bar area casts a soft glow upon its neatly-arranged collection of spirits. Off to the left, a small chalkboard showcases the specials of the day—this time a Greek-style pizza and a creamy salmon and potato chowder, among other things.

The thick, warm soup provides a welcome solace from the bitter winds whipping closely outside, reminiscent of some old New England chowder house from the early pages of Moby Dick. The chowder holds up well with its ever-present freshwater overtones and a rich, heavy base that seems to draw much of its dense consistency from a potato puree.

Jethro’s offers a surprisingly sophisticated menu for such a small, unassuming establishment. The primary entrée selection includes a grilled portabella dish, a breast of duck, and even the proverbial filet mignon. “Light fare” items, a bit less pricy, are certainly no less vibrant—managing even to spin a hamburger into thoughtful culinary territory.

The 8oz. Jethro’s Burger is presented open-faced on lightly toasted slices of baguette and doused with a deep, tangy béarnaise sauce—not a far cry hollandaise. Matched with a smoky vegetable stir-fry and a red potato, the dish seems deserving of a catchier title than the unpretentious “Jethro’s Burger.” But that very blend of fine quality and no-nonsense hospitality is exactly what defines this little West End shop.

Throughout the meal, one can enjoy the friendly sounds of bar-side banter, in topics ranging from the weather to the latent anti-intellectual impulse in U.S. political thinking. And all of that conversation rolls nicely to the well-selected soundtrack of rootsy Americana tunes, tastefully played over the house speakers.

Upon your first visit to Jethro’s, surely everyone will not know your name in the “Cheers” fashion. But they’ll certainly act like they do. And with its perfectly realized atmosphere and deliciously prepared cuisine, you may want to make this place a regular stop for years to come.

By Cliff Lewis

Typically, this column would tend to steer toward those walkable Lancaster City niche establishments that you never quite get around to trying. But, alas, in the quest for the subtle spicework of Indian cuisine, you will need to pack your bags and trek out to the exotic parking lots of East Hempfield. While the location itself may lack the lively metropolitan bustle of most city shops, Taj Mahal’s colorful palate easily makes up for what is lacking in locale.

It should be noted that there is something oddly cozy about the restaurant’s unusual location: In the evening, it appears to be the only operating shop in its quiet suburban strip near Lancaster General’s Health Campus. On Bennet Ave, with its only access from Rohrstown Road, Taj Mahal feels like a secret island, peacefully tucked away from the beaten path.

Inside, the service is friendly and hospitable—definitely a plus for us starry starry-eyed westerners as we wrestle through the pronunciation of various Indian flatbreads.

It is highly recommend, by the way, to begin your meal with one of their many traditional breads, ranging from Taj Naan—stuffed with potatoes, peas, garlic, lamb, and cheese—to Peshawari Naan—with a blend of cashews, raisins, pistachios, and coconut. But, with the help of their sweetly spiced sauces, even the most basic Naan offers a vivid bouquet of flavor.

The Bikyani entrée takes a refreshing turn from the stew-like red sauces that many might expect from Indian cuisine. This platter takes on a lighter appearance, with its aromatic rice tossed with stir-fried lamb, onion, garlic, cashews, raisins, and red pepper. A tangy yogurt-based sauce is served alongside the dish, providing a full-bodied base for the high-ringing arrangement of spices.

This presentation is nicely enhanced by a glass of Lassi, a traditional Indian drink, also yogurt-based. Available in its plain, lightly spiced form or in a variety of fruity flavors, the Lassi is at once rich and refreshing—not unlike the meal itself.

It takes a special kind of meal to respect the appetite while inspiring the palate. Some foods are simply filling, bringing on a sluggish sense of food-weary fatigue; others are almost an intellectual exercise, leaving an unfriendly trace of hunger. But Taj Mahal strikes the perfect balance, which makes for an entirely satisfying dining experience.

By Cliff Lewis

Sometimes a new neighbor can make all the difference—a fact that is now colorfully apparent on the 300 block of North Mulberry Street. There, the recently opened El Maizal Colombian restaurant casts a welcoming glow, not only with its tasteful ethnic decor, but also in the quality of its service, the friendliness of its owners, and the heartiness of its cuisine.

El Maizal was opened late last fall by Ramiro and Gloria Velasco at 306 North Mulberry, formerly home to a run-of-the-mill city convenience shop. The owners lovingly restored the old downtown storefront to blend the building’s historic elegance with the vestments of their Colombian heritage. The restaurant’s slogan spells it out well: “Un pedacito de Colombia en el corazon de Lancaster,” or a “Little piece of Colombia in the heart of Lancaster.”

The name, El Maizal, means the “The Cornfield.” And, incidentally, the shop’s signage and graphic design exhibit a degree of professionalism rarely found in the branding of similar city spots.

The cuisine is never too foreign to an American palate, perhaps even comparable to the soulful, comfort-food domain of the Brothers and Sisters Cafe (another one of Lancaster City’s hidden gems). But always at El Maizal you will find a subtle twist, an unexpected flavor, a different spin on your culinary expectations.

At $9.75, the Bandeja Paisa dish presents a virtual walking tour of Colombian cuisine. The entree generously heaps rice and a savory stew of beans alongside finely ground beef, fried plantains, zesty sausage, and a crispy “pork grind”—a deliciously distant cousin to the much-maligned packaged snack. Add to that a mildly sweet corn dough patty and a fried egg and you have a dish that is both refreshingly unique and satisfyingly hearty.

On a Friday night, all of this was underscored by the friendly sound of Mr. Velasco, off in the front corner, strumming away on this nylon-stringed guitar and singing classic Spanish tunes. A bouncy rendition of “La Bamba” meandered into a brief cover of “Twist and Shout,” only to circle back to the classic Latin hit. The owner personally thanked each guest, encouraging them to spread the word about the establishment.

So here goes:

At 306 North Mulberry, El Maizal is just slightly off the beaten path of most downtown foot traffic. But it is certainly worth walking a few extra blocks. With a cozy setting, neighborly service, and fresh flavors, El Maizal makes for a uniquely satisfying dining experience. So try it out, and pass it on.

By Cliff Lewis

Since 1993, in one form or another, Ric’s Bread & Bakery has held its place in Lancaster City as a quality provider of fresh breads and various other baked items. With a thriving Central Market stand and a quaintly fixed location at the first block of North Queen, this bakery now stands as an indispensable downtown establishment.

Ric’s is all about the bread. In fact, the place is not even owned by someone named Ric—not anymore, at least. Mike Stauffer, along with his wife, Michelle, has co-owned Ric’s Bread for the last year and a half. “People notice Ric’s by now,” Stauffer said, explaining that he kept the title for its local familiarity.

For about a year before purchasing the shop, Stauffer managed the operation on behalf of its then-owner. “I was in between jobs,…so I ran it for a while, and he asked if I wanted to buy it. So I made an offer,” Stauffer said, “Wasn’t really looking to buy a bakery, but here I am.”

Given the quality of products at Ric’s Breads, one would never imagine that the current owner took on the shop with such humble expectations.

Ric’s Bread offers 15-20 different breads on a given day, Stauffer said, noting that each item is made from scratch at the North Queen Street location. And, before the crack of dawn each day, Stauffer is already hard at work in the bakery, since “they’re all made fresh daily.”

Beyond the typical bakery fare, Stauffer said that the shop has been expanding its menu to include deli items for the lunch crowd. The sandwiches in particular—boasting super-fresh rolls and lively combinations of flavor—are well worth a lunch hour spent in the bakery’s cozy indoor seating area.

The grilled chicken sandwich is deliciously diverse, topped with brie, roasted red peppers, arugula, and pesto. And the homemade baguette reminds you to never underestimate the wonderful effect of fresh bread on even the simplest of sandwiches.

While the market stand accounts for about three quarters of the bakery’s income, Stauffer said that the downtown storefront has gained a consistent clientele over the years: “I have a steady crowd. I get a lot of regulars,” Stauffer noted. These faces have quickly become as familiar to Stauffer as the “Ric’s Bread” name has become to the nearby community.

“You get to know everybody,” Stauffer said, “What they want when they walk in the door.”

Second in a series by Cliff Lewis

Gus Karpouzis, the 83-year-old owner of Captain Gus’s steak shop, contentedly keeps up with odd-jobs and friendly patron banter. He’s been happily settled at this far West End location for over forty years. Before that, he owned a downtown nightclub, which proved a far less pleasant arrangement.

In the nineteen-fifties and early sixties, Karpouzis said, his Bamboo Nightclub enjoyed what was then a premier address at the 100 block of North Queen Street. “The Brunswick was always full,” Karpouzis said, “Three hotels on that block of North Queen Street; four theaters, two nightclubs, and anything you wanted to buy.”

Karpouzis remembers performances from ‘Rockability Queen’ Wanda Jackson as the peak of the Bamboo’s glory days. “The greatest person I ever met in my life,” Karpouzis said of Jackson. “I met her in ‘56,” he continued, “I treated her and Marvin Rainwater so good that she came back the following year and sang four nights in my nightclub for nothin’. A fly couldn’t get in the place.”

But, in 1965, as part of a massive, now-lamented ‘urban renewal’ effort in Lancaster City, the entire block was demolished. “It was the busiest block in the city,” Karpouzis said, “They tore it down and they ruined Lancaster.” It was through this act that Karpouzis says he was “burned” by the City: “I turned down $60,000 for my nightclub a year and a half before they tore it down. You know what I got off the city? 22 [thousand].”

Three years later, Karpouzis opened up a little steak shop on the 600 block of West Orange Street. He hasn’t left there since.

Today, Karpouzis’s son, Nick, heads up most of the daily operations at Captain Gus’s. But Gus continues to come in each day, helping out wherever he can. “I can’t stand on my feet,” he explained, “But I come and cut onions, cut my lettuce, help the kids, clean up the booths—odds and ends.”

“I love it,” Gus said.

The first in a series by Cliff Lewis

For over forty years, Captain Gus’s steak shop has held its post at the southwest corner of West Orange and Nevin. You really can’t miss it: Bold, weathered signage stands on the roof and unmistakably distinguishes the little spot for its “steaks” and “subs.” And, once inside, the eccentric, tackle-shop decor tells a dozen stories in a single glance. In visiting Captain Gus’s, it’s difficult to separate the cultural experience from the culinary one—although the steaks most certainly speak for themselves.

“I’ve been in this business long enough to know that—I don’t care what it is—fresh is the best,” said Gus Karpouzis, 83, who first opened the shop and today remains the owner. Gus’s steaks have been always distinguished by their made-to-order preparation, as opposed to the common practice of frying steaks and onion en masse. “When I first started here, I made every steak to order,” Karpouzis said, “If you can’t wait, I’m sorry. But I’m gonna make it my way.”

Gus’s steaks are traditionally topped with marinara sauce, unless customers request otherwise. This, Karpouzis said, has separated his steaks from the common “Philly” cheesesteak. Karpouzis was also careful to note that his shop only uses choice meat for its cheesesteaks. “Choice, in my opinion, is the best meat raised in this country,” Karpouzis said, explaining that the consistency—not too fatty, not too lean—fries perfectly for a good sandwich.

When asked how he likes to take his own cheesesteak, Karpouzis joked. “Everybody’s got different tastes,” he asserted, “There’s fifty Miss Americas and there’s five judges, and they all pick different girls!”

The walls of the narrow shop are adorned with fishing rods and proudly mounted fish. This motif has been a mainstay ever since the shop was first opened by Karpouzis, an avid fisherman.

In the summer months, several boxes of “Gus’s Treats”—fresh local produce—are usually set out for free near the front counter. This tradition, Karpouzis said, came as a direct result of his favorite hobby: “38 years ago, I used to take some of the Amish and the Mennonites from Leola fishing and never charged them nothin’. And, in return, they used to give me vegetables—’go out into the field and get whatever you want.’”

Today, Karpouzis is less available to take the locals on such outings, but he keeps the friendship strong by giving free rides whenever he can. “Anywhere they want to go I take ‘em,” he said.

Although the steak shop has been running for about 40 years, Karpouzis has been in the game for much longer than that. Karpouzis cites November 1, 1946 as the day when he first entered the scene as a Lancaster City business owner. He first opened the Fulton Restaurant on North Plum Street, and later started up the ill-fated Bamboo Nightclub—demolished in the 1960s to make way for Lancaster Square.

“I got burned,” Karpouzis said, loosely but poignantly quoting the father of Western philosophy: “Socrates says that once you get burned, you’ll never forget it.”

By Cliff Lewis

The Penn Square Grille, adjoining the new Marriott Hotel and Lancaster County Convention Center, maintains a thoughtful and tastefully engineered atmosphere; however, the cuisine too often lacks refinement enough to keep up with the restaurant’s decor. But, with its devoted head chef and clever selection of menu items, the Grille could one day mature into a genuine hit—instead of merely ‘hit or miss.’

Aesthetically and architecturally, the restaurant shows great ingenuity. The furniture and fixtures are designed in boxy, modernist angles while the entirety of the space is bathed in rich, earthy tones to achieve an environment that is both cool and comfortable. (The intrusive, ballroom style carpet would stand as one stark exception, however.) A long table for twelve is cordoned off in a private room to accommodate larger groups that could easily flood the common area with chatter.

A long table is provided near the entry to the Rendezvous Lounge, apparently for lone travelers who care to socialize over their dinner.

The clientele for lunch consisted largely of an upper-class, matronly lot—perhaps out on the town for market day —and business executives in expensive suits. Prices, however, were not exorbitant, with the most expensive entrée ringing in at $14.

The menu selection strives to serve up Lancaster County’s culinary heritage with an upscale flourish. This effort often amounts to copious references to our nearby market. The Central Market salad, for instance, boasts “hand selected fresh greens, Linden Dale goat cheese, dried cranberries, toasted almonds and citrus vinaigrette.” The Roasted Fresh Turkey—a Thursday lunch special—features a down-home spread of “cornbread dressing, seasonal vegetables, old fashioned country gravy and mashed potatoes.”

Although lacking the local color of other items, the Crab Macaroni and Cheese similarly works to serve a common dish in high style. The lunch special incorporated a larger, penne-like pasta with a creamy cheese sauce—far more in the neighborhood of Alfredo than Velveeta—and mingled in morsels of smoked bacon and lump crab.

The restaurant walks a fine line, and too often stumbles, in its tendency to fancy up the familiar. From the bland, tough dinner rolls, to the undrinkable Maxwell House coffee, to the filtered tap water served in sheik “Natura” glass bottles, the Grille shows an unfortunate propensity to throw a high-grade label on a low-grade item. The Shoo-Fly Pie Tart, for example, sounded like a clever idea; but the final product tasted like a sharply sweet layering of Cinnamon Toast Crunch and vanilla icing.

As noted by my senior lunch companion, the desert menu would do well to incorporate a few heart-friendly items. The sociable rhythm of dessert following dinner needn’t be a luxury exclusive to sprightly twenty-somethings.

The Penn Square Grille has only been in business for several months, and as such, shouldn’t merit any final judgment. There is plenty of time and room for this establishment to grow into its vibrant surroundings. And with a head chef like Paul Gusst, who eagerly seeks input and advice from each table of patrons, this restaurant may well learn to capitalize on its strengths and work out its weaknesses.

By Cliff Lewis

After the traffic-laden transition from Fruitville Pike to North Prince Street, one may easily zip past the intersection of Prince and Liberty without taking notice of the quaint little shop that sits on its northeast corner. But for the shameless lover of classic metropolitan fare, the Sandwich Factory is not one to miss. This decade-old establishment not only serves up the traditional hoagies and burgers that one might expect from a deli or steak shop, but has also developed an assortment of clever variations on popular favorites.

Inside, the atmosphere is cool and casual, without the rugged griminess that many patrons have to come expect from any place that serves a good cheese steak. The shop feels fresh and organized, with green and yellow décor that evokes a mild beach-town aesthetic. At lunch, the service is efficient, but not frantic.

The menu includes customary staples (soup, salad, sandwiches, cheese steaks, char grilled chicken sandwiches, etc), but the true highlights are found among the shop’s “Factory Hoagies”—a delicious collection of unique Sandwich Factory originals.

The Cuban includes “homemade slow roasted pork & ham, topped with Swiss cheese”; the Sirloin Cheese Steak uses provolone and the obvious variation of meat. One simple-yet-appealing item is the Reuben Hoagie, working the usual contents into a friendly new format. The Factory Fish, with a hearty filet of beer battered Hokey Fish and a fresh Kaiser roll, puts most other fish sandwiches to shame—even though it is the only seafood on the menu.

The one dessert offered at the Sandwich Factory keeps with the shop’s theme of subtle variation. The Cheesecake Wrap deliciously rolls a rich cheesecake filling into a lightly sweetened, fried shell. It may not be the healthiest snack ever devised—but, then again, this probably is not the place for a calorie-counter.

The Sandwich Factory is located at 45 West Liberty Street, on the intersection with North Prince. For more information, including a complete menu, please click here.