By Cliff Lewis

Typically, this column would tend to steer toward those walkable Lancaster City niche establishments that you never quite get around to trying. But, alas, in the quest for the subtle spicework of Indian cuisine, you will need to pack your bags and trek out to the exotic parking lots of East Hempfield. While the location itself may lack the lively metropolitan bustle of most city shops, Taj Mahal’s colorful palate easily makes up for what is lacking in locale.

It should be noted that there is something oddly cozy about the restaurant’s unusual location: In the evening, it appears to be the only operating shop in its quiet suburban strip near Lancaster General’s Health Campus. On Bennet Ave, with its only access from Rohrstown Road, Taj Mahal feels like a secret island, peacefully tucked away from the beaten path.

Inside, the service is friendly and hospitable—definitely a plus for us starry starry-eyed westerners as we wrestle through the pronunciation of various Indian flatbreads.

It is highly recommend, by the way, to begin your meal with one of their many traditional breads, ranging from Taj Naan—stuffed with potatoes, peas, garlic, lamb, and cheese—to Peshawari Naan—with a blend of cashews, raisins, pistachios, and coconut. But, with the help of their sweetly spiced sauces, even the most basic Naan offers a vivid bouquet of flavor.

The Bikyani entrée takes a refreshing turn from the stew-like red sauces that many might expect from Indian cuisine. This platter takes on a lighter appearance, with its aromatic rice tossed with stir-fried lamb, onion, garlic, cashews, raisins, and red pepper. A tangy yogurt-based sauce is served alongside the dish, providing a full-bodied base for the high-ringing arrangement of spices.

This presentation is nicely enhanced by a glass of Lassi, a traditional Indian drink, also yogurt-based. Available in its plain, lightly spiced form or in a variety of fruity flavors, the Lassi is at once rich and refreshing—not unlike the meal itself.

It takes a special kind of meal to respect the appetite while inspiring the palate. Some foods are simply filling, bringing on a sluggish sense of food-weary fatigue; others are almost an intellectual exercise, leaving an unfriendly trace of hunger. But Taj Mahal strikes the perfect balance, which makes for an entirely satisfying dining experience.