By Cliff Lewis

Sometimes a new neighbor can make all the difference—a fact that is now colorfully apparent on the 300 block of North Mulberry Street. There, the recently opened El Maizal Colombian restaurant casts a welcoming glow, not only with its tasteful ethnic decor, but also in the quality of its service, the friendliness of its owners, and the heartiness of its cuisine.

El Maizal was opened late last fall by Ramiro and Gloria Velasco at 306 North Mulberry, formerly home to a run-of-the-mill city convenience shop. The owners lovingly restored the old downtown storefront to blend the building’s historic elegance with the vestments of their Colombian heritage. The restaurant’s slogan spells it out well: “Un pedacito de Colombia en el corazon de Lancaster,” or a “Little piece of Colombia in the heart of Lancaster.”

The name, El Maizal, means the “The Cornfield.” And, incidentally, the shop’s signage and graphic design exhibit a degree of professionalism rarely found in the branding of similar city spots.

The cuisine is never too foreign to an American palate, perhaps even comparable to the soulful, comfort-food domain of the Brothers and Sisters Cafe (another one of Lancaster City’s hidden gems). But always at El Maizal you will find a subtle twist, an unexpected flavor, a different spin on your culinary expectations.

At $9.75, the Bandeja Paisa dish presents a virtual walking tour of Colombian cuisine. The entree generously heaps rice and a savory stew of beans alongside finely ground beef, fried plantains, zesty sausage, and a crispy “pork grind”—a deliciously distant cousin to the much-maligned packaged snack. Add to that a mildly sweet corn dough patty and a fried egg and you have a dish that is both refreshingly unique and satisfyingly hearty.

On a Friday night, all of this was underscored by the friendly sound of Mr. Velasco, off in the front corner, strumming away on this nylon-stringed guitar and singing classic Spanish tunes. A bouncy rendition of “La Bamba” meandered into a brief cover of “Twist and Shout,” only to circle back to the classic Latin hit. The owner personally thanked each guest, encouraging them to spread the word about the establishment.

So here goes:

At 306 North Mulberry, El Maizal is just slightly off the beaten path of most downtown foot traffic. But it is certainly worth walking a few extra blocks. With a cozy setting, neighborly service, and fresh flavors, El Maizal makes for a uniquely satisfying dining experience. So try it out, and pass it on.