By Cliff Lewis

For most Americans, the category of “Mexican food” is occupied by a short list of ingredients—tortilla, cheese, salsa, maybe some beef or chicken. We tend to imagine something heavy, salty, and vaguely spicy; but “fresh” would rarely come mind as an apt description. Cocina Mexicana, however, offers Mexican food with a decidedly fresh and vivid appeal. The establishment defines its cuisine as “authentic Mexican food,” and for good reason.

Cocina Mexicana sits at the central location of 47 North Prince St., on the same block as the Prince Street Café, Carman and David’s Creamery, the Fulton Theater, and the PA Academy of Music. However, many passersby might miss this quaint little restaurant while averting their eyes from “the Den” next door. But those curious enough to stop by are welcomed with a friendly atmosphere, bathed in warm, earthy tones of yellow and orange. The service is both prompt and easy-going.

The menu at Cocina Mexicana has a way of subtly defying expectations. Their banana milkshake is light and mild, probably a simple blend of bananas and milk. And their hot sauces have a way of majoring in the bright zest of fresh peppers while minoring in the usual burn.

The taco selection is diverse and delicious, ranging from Al Pastor (with savory grilled pork and pineapple) to El Mexicano (with fried strips of potato, a slice of avocado and cactus, and a choice of meat). All are served on two warm pads of soft, flour tortilla. The “Combo Enchiladas” platter—with one chicken, one cheese, and one shrimp enchilada—showcases a variety of lively flavors, accompanied by a generous serving of rice and refried beans which is prepared with as much creativity and care as the main course itself.

Cocina Mexicana also offers a selection of soups, salads, burritos, and tortas (“authentic Mexican sandwiches made with mayonnaise, beans, lettuce, tomato, avocado, jalapeno pepper and your choice of filling”). And, perhaps best of all, the menu offers a number of budget items: With most of their tacos ringing in at under $2.50, Cocina Mexicana is perhaps the best place in Lancaster to go for a $5 meal.

Cocina Mexicana is located at 47 North Prince Street, and is open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Friday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; and Saturday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.